Forget the countdown party. Japan's New Year is its quietest, most important holiday — three million people at Meiji Jingu, 108 temple bells at midnight, year-crossing noodles and the first sunrise. Here's how it works.
When the days get short, Japan answers with light. The sea of LEDs at Nabana no Sato, Kobe's Luminarie, Sapporo's snow festival and the candlelit Otaru Snow Light Path — where to go, and when.
Chest-deep in steaming water while snow falls on your hair — that's yukimi onsen. From the gas-lamp-lit ryokan of Ginzan to Kinosaki's bath-hopping arcades and the snow monkeys of Jigokudani.